Surfing is often like a casino; you go in frenetic to make your all-in or nothing bet—GLORY or BUST! This summer felt like a casino game; I waited until the last moment to bet it all, hoping to catch the best waves, with no more than 24 hours in advance to decide, relying on this strategy as my only joker to arrive on time for the targeted swell. A 6-week casino with 3 different cultures—I’d say that, despite the odds, we won most of the games.
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