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| Ollie Henry, 18, surfed the monster wave, ‘The Right’ for the second time last week.Picture: Matt MacDonald |
Big wave young gun Ollie Henry braved The Right for the second time last month and says there is no experience quite like it.
The 18-year-old surfer from Queensland, who moved to Dunsborough six years ago, said he did not know anyone else in his age group who liked to surf the notorious wave near Walpole.
That comes as no surprise, because being towed into the monster slab by jetski is not for the inexperienced or faint-hearted.
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| The boy stole the show with the wave of the day. Picture: Matt MacDonald |
Henry said he felt more comfortable surfing The Right for the second time around but he was aware that things could go wrong at any moment.
“Things happened on big waves all the time,” he said.
“You know what you’re in for, so you prepare yourself mentally to do it.
“I know how powerful the waves can be, so there is that build up adrenaline rush where you know something could go wrong.”
This time around, Henry was accompanied by his mate, another 18-year-old — bodyboarder and photographer Matt MacDonald — who took these brilliants shots of Henry riding the wave.
Henry has been surfing since he was five.
He said could not wait to get back to The Right this year.
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